Copenhagen Breaks

When I first arrived in Copenhagen, what struck me immediately was how open and relaxed the city feels. Denmark has long been known for its progressive values — it was the first country in the world to legally recognise same-sex unions back in 1989 — and that spirit is still very present. Staying in the city centre, I found myself in an area where rainbow flags hang casually from cafés, and nobody blinks an eye at queer couples holding hands. It’s a city that doesn’t just tolerate difference, it feels like it quietly celebrates it. Walking around, I never once felt out of place.

The one area where I had a challenge was food. Danish cuisine is famous for fish, and you see it everywhere — from the harbour markets to little eateries tucked down cobbled side streets. As a vegan, that can make eating out tricky.

There are plenty of plant-based options now (Copenhagen is catching up quickly, with great vegan cafés popping up), but it did take a bit of searching. When I did find them, though, they were some of the most inventive vegan dishes I’ve had in Europe — beautiful plates with Nordic flair that made the hunt worth it.

One of my favourite parts of the trip was visiting Tivoli Gardens, the old theme park right in the middle of the city. It opened in 1843, making it one of the oldest amusement parks in the world, and it has this charming, almost storybook feel.

At night, when the lights come on, it feels magical. There are roller coasters and rides, of course, but what I loved most was simply wandering, seeing people of all ages soaking up the atmosphere. It’s nostalgic and playful, and it felt very Copenhagen — stylish yet unpretentious.

One thing that stood out to me was how Copenhagen feels alive with flowers. Even in the city centre, little bike baskets spill over with fresh blooms, and markets are filled with tulips, roses, and seasonal arrangements.

There’s a sense that people here really care about bringing nature into everyday life. I loved strolling past shops where buckets of flowers lined the pavement, almost like a permanent installation. For someone who enjoys beauty in small details, it was one of those quiet joys of the city.

Copenhagen’s canals reminded me a little of Amsterdam, but with a calmer, more spacious energy. Nyhavn, the colourful harbour lined with 17th-century houses, is probably the most photographed spot in the city — and it really is that pretty in person. I stayed nearby and found myself walking by the water almost every day. There are boat tours you can take, but even just sitting by the canal with a coffee felt like a perfect way to experience the city. The mix of historic charm and the easy pace of locals cycling by makes it feel instantly welcoming.

While Tivoli is a highlight, there’s so much more to explore. The Designmuseum Danmark was a favourite, especially if you love clean, modern aesthetics. The Round Tower (Rundetaarn) gave me the best panoramic views of the city after a winding climb.

And then there’s Christiania, the famous free town — a colourful, alternative community that feels like stepping into a different world. What I liked most was that Copenhagen offers both quiet moments, like cycling through tree-lined streets, and cultural experiences that give you a real sense of its creative heart.

Before I left, I visited the famous Little Mermaid statue by the harbour — the symbol most people associate with Copenhagen. For me, it carried a deeper resonance. Hans Christian Andersen’s tale has often been read as a metaphor for longing and transformation, and standing there, I thought about the time I dressed as a mermaid myself to symbolise my journey with transness.

Seeing the statue, small yet powerful against the water, felt like meeting an old friend. It was a reminder that stories and symbols can travel across time and place, and in Copenhagen, I found mine reflected back at me.